We don't get too strict on definitions here. Simple topper setup or box truck / ambulance conversion, we'll call it a truck camper.

You'll see both "pop-up" and "pop top" used to describe the same style of camper; the terms are interchangeable. The hard side vs pop-up decision is a key one, but neither is strictly better. It just depends on the use case.

Trucks in the US fall into three broad categories:

Bed size is mainly what we're concerned with since that's what we're trying to fit a camper in. The width between the wheel wells is what matters for usable camper floor space. Compact and mid-size trucks are similar in width, while full size beds are meaningfully wider. Bed lengths vary within each category. You can sometimes fit a mid-size camper in a full size truck, but not the other way around.

When it comes to bed lengths there are some standard sizes, but each manufacturer does things slightly differently so these aren't meant to be exact measurements:

Looking at the full size category, these can be broken down further into:

Terms like "short bed" and "long bed" don't have strict definitions and get used differently across truck classes. Use the bed lengths above as your reference, since that's what camper manufacturers will spec to.

You'll want to look for campers that are designed to fit your truck bed size, but that doesn't mean the camper and truck need to be the same length. As an example, many 8′ campers are designed to work on 6.5′ beds. Look for truck fitment information, not just the length of the camper. If you shop all truck campers on our website you can filter by truck bed size.

Payload capacity is the amount of weight your vehicle can safely carry. This weight limit includes you, other passengers, pets, gear, your camper, aftermarket bumpers, roof racks, oversize tires, and anything else you put on or inside your vehicle. You need to ensure your truck can safely carry the wet weight (this includes water & fuel) of your camper plus passengers and anything else that you will bring along.

You'll often hear that certain campers require a 150/1500 or 250/2500 truck. These are general rules of thumb as a 2500 will typically have a higher max payload than a 1500, but the range can vary widely. For example, Ram makes their 1500 trucks with payloads ranging from about 1,200 to 2,300 lbs and their 2500 trucks range from 1,600 to 4,400 lbs of payload.

Payload capacity cannot be increased except by specially certified mechanic shops in certain states. You'll often hear people talk of increasing payload by adding higher rate springs or airbags, but what they really mean is improving the ability of the truck to handle a higher load. That doesn't change the payload rating of the vehicle.

There are many other factors that go into payload such as the frame, axles, tires, brakes, engine & transmission cooling, etc. Adding springs or airbags with more load capacity can drastically improve ride quality when carrying a camper. See the truck suspension section for guidance on when upgrades become worthwhile based on remaining payload capacity.

Most manufacturers provide a dry weight, which is a good way to compare campers since larger tanks aren't a downside, even though they'll make the camper weigh more when full. Just remember you'll need to consider the weight of fluids on top of that.

If you shop all truck campers on our site, you can filter by truck bed size.

Some campers fit inside the truck bed with the tailgate closed, while others extend out past the bed. Consider how much it extends for overall vehicle length and clearance for towing or hitch accessories like bike racks.

Timbren and Sumo Springs are the most budget-friendly option. They replace your factory bump stop with a larger rubber or foam piece to help support extra weight. Parts and installation are cheap, but you'll limit suspension travel and get a rougher ride, since the bump stop is engaged nearly all the time under load. Ok for pavement, not recommended for rough roads.

Air bags are the most versatile option. You can change spring rate in seconds by adjusting air pressure, which is useful if the camper is only in your truck for trips and you drive empty most of the time. It also means you don't have to redo your suspension if you switch to a different camper. Like bump stops, air bags limit suspension travel, but not as much.

A full spring replacement is the best-performing option. The tradeoffs are higher up-front cost and a stiffer ride when the camper isn't in the bed. In return, your suspension works exactly as designed with full travel available, which translates to significantly better ride quality than the options above. For heavy off-road use or the best comfort and handling loaded, this is highly recommended.

Add-a-leaf kits and leaf pack rebuilds are essentially the same approach done at the pack level. A spring shop adds or swaps leaves engineered to match your factory pack. Done well, the result rides and holds up close to a full replacement.

Helper or overload springs are the budget alternative. An extra leaf bolts on top of your factory pack and engages as the truck squats under load. It's inexpensive and reversible, but the load still runs through the factory leaves and the bolt-on hardware, so it's a supplement to the pack rather than a redesign of it. Under a camper that lives on the truck, that means a harsher loaded ride and more wear on a pack that was never engineered for it.

Better shocks improve comfort and handling, reduce body sway and roll, and cut down on wear and tear on the truck and camper. If you're comfortable, your camper and truck probably are too.

Owners of heavy duty trucks (¾ ton/2500 and up) often complain about how rough these trucks ride. Part of it is that the springs are stiff to handle heavy loads, but another key factor is that the factory shocks aren't sized or built to match those heavy-duty springs. A good aftermarket set (2.5″ diameter minimum recommended for heavy duty trucks) can completely change how these trucks ride and drastically improve comfort and handling.

We install suspension packages in house — see builds & installs if you'd like us to spec a setup for your rig.

This is the traditional way RVs and campers have been built for decades. A wood or aluminum stud frame forms the skeleton of the camper, and exterior walls (typically laminated fiberglass or composite skins over insulation) get attached to that frame. The frame carries the primary structural loads, while the skin adds some rigidity.

The approach has real advantages, which is why it's stayed dominant. It's the most affordable way to build, so it covers the widest range of price points and floorplans, from entry-level units to premium multi-slide builds. The materials and methods are well understood, and because almost every RV shop knows how to work on framed construction, repairs and parts are easy to source just about anywhere.

Framed construction relies on sealants at the seams, so resealing is part of ownership. Frame-and-panel builds have joints where the walls meet the floor, roof, slide-outs, windows, and doors, and each one depends on caulking and sealant to keep water out. Those seals need inspection and periodic resealing, which is ongoing work and cost over the life of the camper. It's manageable and predictable, but it does need doing. Skip it, or start with a poorly built camper, and water can get in and rot wood framing, delaminate walls, or corrode aluminum framing.

Framing material matters here too. Aluminum studs conduct cold more readily than wood, acting as thermal bridges that can show up as condensation lines where the framing runs. Wood avoids that but is more vulnerable to water damage. Different tradeoffs, neither strictly better.

Build quality varies widely across framed campers. Framing material, sealant quality, and how well the seams are detailed all differ between manufacturers and make a real difference in how a camper ages. A well-built, cared-for framed camper lasts 20+ years, while a poorly built or neglected one can develop rot in under 10. Repairs are usually moderate and straightforward when you catch damage early and it's localized, but widespread water intrusion gets expensive.

Best suited to pavement and moderate dirt roads. With many fastened joints and seams, there are more points that can work loose under long-term vibration, though a well-built camper with quality fasteners holds up well.

A more modern approach using single-piece panels that require no internal framing. The walls, roof, and floor are composite panels: closed-cell foam core sandwiched between fiberglass or aluminum facings. These panels are bonded together to form a rigid shell. Aluminum framing is added where panels meet and around door and window openings, giving the panels something solid to bond to and reinforcing the areas that carry the most load.

The main advantage is that there's no internal framing to rot and no separate insulation to settle, and the closed-cell foam core doesn't absorb water the way wood framing can. It also means no thermal bridging, since there's no framing running through the wall to conduct cold or create condensation.

Seams still need maintenance. Panels meet at the corners, roof, and floor, and there are seals around every window, door, and roof penetration. Those need the same inspection and periodic resealing as any other camper. How many seams you're maintaining depends on the builder: some use fewer, larger panels, which means fewer joints to seal.

The tradeoff is repair complexity. Surface damage to the fiberglass facing is moderately priced to fix with standard techniques, but if damage reaches the bonded foam core, repair gets specialized and expensive, sometimes requiring panel replacement. Composite campers also tend to sit in the mid-to-upper price range because of the manufacturing process.

Build quality matters here as much as anywhere. Panel strength depends on the bond between the facings and the core, and on how well the edges and joints are detailed. A well-built composite camper is exceptionally durable, but a poor bond can delaminate over time.

These hold up very well off-road because bonded panels share loads across the whole structure rather than concentrating stress at frame joints.

In our lineup: Scout and AT Overland use this construction.

Two large molded fiberglass pieces (a top and bottom shell) join to form the camper. The curved shape of the shells is part of what makes them strong — the geometry distributes loads across the whole structure rather than concentrating them at corners or joints. Key mounting points and openings get extra reinforcement.

This style has fewer seams than framed construction. The main one is where the top and bottom shells join, plus the standard seals around windows, doors, and roof vents. That makes it inherently water-resistant. With no framing running through the shell, there's also no thermal bridging to create cold spots or condensation, so insulation performance stays consistent. The continuous curved shape looks distinctive and tends to age well aesthetically.

Downsides: manufacturing requires expensive tooling, so these typically sit in the mid-to-premium price range. Surface damage to the fiberglass is moderate to repair, but if structural sections of the shell are compromised it can be expensive.

Off-road performance is strong because the continuous shell handles flexing well, distributing stress through the curved geometry instead of concentrating it at seams or joints.

In our lineup: Northern Lite uses this construction, and Scout uses this method for the single-piece fiberglass roofs on their pop-ups.

An aluminum frame or shell with skin panels, where structural integrity comes from the frame, the panels themselves, or both. Simpler than conventional framed construction, without the interior wall panels, separate insulation batts, and layered assembly.

The main win is corrosion resistance. Aluminum doesn't rust. The frame approach also makes it easy to add mounting points for racks, awnings, and gear. The tradeoff is insulation. Aluminum framing conducts cold well, creating thermal bridges through the wall that reduce effective insulation and can show up as condensation on interior surfaces where the framing runs. For summer or mild-weather use this isn't a major concern, but it's worth factoring in if you plan to camp in freezing conditions.

Three main variations, and the differences matter for durability and repair:

• Bolted extrusion construction. Custom aluminum extrusions bolt together to form the frame, and pre-finished aluminum composite panels bond on with structural adhesives. No welding keeps costs down and makes repair simpler, since damage is usually isolated to a single panel or piece of hardware. The tradeoff is seams wherever panels meet, including at the roof, relying on sealants that need occasional attention.
• Welded frame construction. A hand-welded aluminum frame with aluminum skin panels welded, riveted, or bonded on. Solid aluminum panels stay UV-stable over decades. Build quality is what matters most here: sound welds from a skilled fabricator hold up for the long haul, while poor welds are the main long-term risk. Any repairs need someone who can weld thin-wall aluminum well.
• Welded composite panel construction. The most sophisticated approach in this category. Aluminum-skinned composite panels (aluminum facings bonded to a honeycomb core) form the walls and roof, and the aluminum skins are welded together at the panel edges to create a continuous shell, with reinforcement at hardpoints. Because the walls and roof are welded directly, there's no seam at the top of the shell (historically the most water-exposed joint on any RV) and no roof-to-wall sealant to maintain. The panels provide structure, insulation, and finish in one integrated piece. Precision fabrication and specialized repair are reflected in the price, but the finished product is exceptionally durable and low-maintenance.

All three perform well off-road thanks to the structure's ability to flex without damage. Longevity is strong when the build quality is there.

In our lineup: AT Overland (welded composite panel), Lone Peak (bolted extrusion), and OVRLND (welded frame) all use this construction.

A fixed base structure (built using any of the above methods) combined with a lifting roof and flexible upper wall assemblies. When the roof is lowered, the camper is compact for driving. When raised at camp, you get full standing room. The walls of the pop-up section are typically a soft fabric — generally marine-grade vinyl, solution-dyed acrylic, or a vinyl- or acrylic-coated polyester — in single-layer or insulated versions.

The added complexity comes from moving parts: hinges, lift mechanisms (manual, hydraulic, or electric), and the seal where the roof meets the walls when closed. These all introduce wear points that fixed-shell campers don't have.

Cost varies widely depending on system complexity. Simpler manual-lift designs are usually more affordable, while powered lift systems sit at the premium end. Longevity is solid in simpler designs but declines as mechanical complexity increases, especially if the camper sees heavy use. Repair costs tend to be moderate. Fabric and seals eventually wear out and need replacement.

Off-road performance is strong when the design is kept simple. The lower overall height also helps clearance and stability on rough terrain. The catch is that the mechanical systems need ongoing maintenance, especially with regular off-road use.

In our lineup: Scout, Lone Peak, OVRLND, and AT Overland all offer pop-up designs.

Flatbed campers handle mounting differently. Instead of dropping into a truck bed and tensioning turnbuckles, a flatbed camper attaches rigidly to the deck at engineered hard points, so most of the tie-down hardware above doesn't apply. If you're pairing a camper with one of our custom aluminum flatbeds, we build the mounting interface to match the camper as part of the install.

Let's start with the core building blocks of any electrical system:

So, if you're running a 12V fridge that draws 5 amps, that's 60 watts of power. Run it for 10 hours, and you've used 600 watt-hours (or 50 amp-hours) of energy from your battery.

Truck campers and RVs almost universally use 12V DC power systems. It's a practical choice rooted in how vehicles are built:

• Automotive compatibility: Your truck already runs on a 12V system, so powering your camper from the same source (alternator, battery, wiring) just makes sense.
• Simplicity and safety: 12V systems are safe to work with and don't require specialized tools or electricians.
• Availability: There's a massive market of 12V gear — fridges, fans, lights, diesel heaters, and chargers all designed for this system.

For most truck camper owners, 12V is the best starting point.

12V is the standard in campers and vans, and it handles more than people expect, including 120V air conditioning through a large inverter.

You'll see 24V and 48V systems in some builds because higher voltage moves the same power at a fraction of the current. That means smaller, less expensive cable, less voltage drop over long runs, and less heat in the wiring. A single DC-to-DC converter after the battery feeds the 12V accessories, so running the usual lights, fans, and fridges isn't a problem.

The tradeoff is serviceability. 12V is what nearly every camper accessory, RV shop, and mobile tech is set up for, so parts are easy to find and most owners can safely troubleshoot their own system. Higher voltage DC requires more care to work on and fewer shops are equipped for it, which matters when something fails far from home.

Higher voltage generally makes sense on a new build designed around big loads from the start, particularly with long cable runs, a large solar array, or multiple inverters. For most campers, and especially for anything already wired at 12V, there's rarely a reason to change.

To plan your setup, you'll want to estimate how many amp-hours (Ah) your devices will draw from your battery each day. Here's a simplified chart showing common truck camper devices, from essentials to energy hogs:

Note that runtime hours represent the time a device is actually drawing power. A fridge runs 24 hours a day but its compressor only cycles on roughly half that time, so 12 hours of compressor time is typical.

AGM or lead-acid batteries are cheaper up front but heavier, slower to charge, and only offer about 50% usable capacity.

Lithium (LiFePO₄) batteries are lighter, charge faster, last longer, and give you nearly 100% usable capacity. They cost more up front, but they're a smart investment if you spend a lot of time off-grid.

Solar power. Most off-grid setups rely on solar as a primary energy source. Panels feed power into a charge controller (preferably MPPT), which then safely charges your battery bank. A 200W–400W array is typical in truck campers and can generate roughly 60–120Ah per day in good conditions, less in cloudy weather or shade.

Alternator charging. Solar is great but not always reliable in cloudy weather or shade, so having a backup matters. Wiring the camper to charge off your truck's alternator is reliable and fast. We wire most setups to charge at 50 A (600 W), which puts up to 100 Ah back into the battery system over a 2 hour drive.

Shore power. When you're at home or in a campground, plugging into a 110/120V outlet is a very fast way to top off your batteries.

Generators. Generators are loud, heavy, and less common in truck campers, but they're still useful for backup charging or running big appliances in a pinch.

You need an inverter if you plan to use 110/120V AC appliances like air conditioners, coffee makers, or power tools. A pure sine wave inverter is safest for electronics. Inverter sizes vary depending on what you're powering:

Inverters draw power even when idle and are roughly 85–95% efficient, so for small loads like phone and laptop charging, running gear directly on 12V is the more efficient path. The exception is anything you already own in a 120V version, where the cost of switching outweighs the efficiency gain.

Roof vent fans are the most efficient cooling method for moderate climates. They exhaust warm air and pull in cooler outside air, improving airflow and comfort with very little power draw. They don't lower air temperature but make a big difference when paired with open windows.

DC air conditioners (12V, 24V, or 48V) run directly off your battery system without an inverter. They're more efficient than a standard 120V unit, mostly because they use variable-speed compressors that throttle down to match demand instead of cycling full-on and full-off. The catch is cost and installation. They often run two to three times the price of a comparable 120V unit for less cooling capacity, and retrofitting one into an existing camper means running much heavier cable up to the roof.

110/120V AC units are what most campers come with from the factory. Out of the box they only run on shore power or a generator, but with a large inverter, a soft start, and enough battery, you can run the unit you already have off your batteries. The efficiency gain from a DC unit is real, but smaller than the price difference suggests. For most people who already have a 120V rooftop unit, putting that money into inverter and battery capacity can be the cheaper path to off-grid air conditioning. It's an upgrade we do regularly — see builds & installs.

The most common choice in modern camper builds. They run on 12V DC, use a compressor like a home fridge, and are built for mobile, off-grid use. Unlike absorption fridges, they don't need to be level and cool down to temp in a few hours. Front loading and top loading "chest-style" models are both available. Chest-style is more efficient since cold air doesn't spill out when opened, while uprights offer easier organization. Many can run as a fridge or freezer, and some have dual-zone compartments for both.

They're efficient, drawing around 1 to 5 amps depending on temperature and usage, and they work whether you're driving, parked, or off-grid. The tradeoff is a higher upfront cost and the need for a well-supported battery setup, ideally with solar or alternator charging.

These fridges run on propane, 120V AC, and sometimes 12V DC (hence 2-way or 3-way). They were the RV standard for decades because, before lithium batteries became practical, propane was the only way to keep a fridge running off-grid for any length of time. Most manufacturers have moved away from them in favor of 12V compressor fridges paired with lithium batteries.

The downsides are real. They need to be kept reasonably level to work (manufacturers typically spec within about 3° side-to-side and 6° front-to-back), take 10–12 hours to cool down, perform poorly in hot weather, and are inefficient on 12V DC. They can still make sense in propane-heavy setups with limited battery capacity, but in most modern builds a 12V compressor fridge is the better choice.

For short trips or simple setups, a cooler with ice can still get the job done. They don't use power, they're cheap, and they're easy to pack and forget.

But ice melts, takes up space, and can make a mess if food isn't packed carefully. There's no temperature control, and you'll need to drain and restock ice regularly. You may still want to carry a cooler as a backup or to store drinks separately from your main fridge.

Most setups include:

• A freshwater tank, usually 5 to 30 gallons
• A 12V pump or manual pump to move water to the sink or shower
• A grey water tank or jug to collect used water

You can also use jugs with spouts or gravity-fed setups for simplicity.

A rough guide — it depends on your camp style, how many people you travel with, and how often you can refill:

It's a good idea to consider a water purifier to ensure you have safe drinking water while on the road. Don't mistake a filter for a purifier, the two are very different. Check out the CDC's guidance on water disinfection for while hiking, camping, and traveling.

Grayl offers a water purifier + filter in a compact water bottle format, and LifeSaver offers a larger version in a 5 gallon Jerrycan. The LifeSaver systems come standard in most Scout Campers.

Hot water isn't essential but adds comfort. Common options:

You can also skip a toilet entirely and rely on public restrooms or a shovel. Always follow proper local waste disposal guidelines. Shop truck camper toilets.

Even the thinner camper mattresses can be exceedingly comfortable (hello, Lone Peak), but it's always worth testing them in person for your specific sleep style. And remember, a mattress is also something you can replace fairly easily if you have specific sleep needs.

These terms describe how the bed sits relative to your truck, not compass direction. It's one of the most debated layout choices in any truck camper, and there's no universally "right" answer, just tradeoffs.

Camper mattresses rarely match residential sizing, which catches a lot of first-time buyers off guard. But more manufacturers are starting to offer standard queen size, and some even with a "king size" extension. If the sheet fits…

They're also not as deep as your residential mattress: pop-up toppers like the Lone Peak will have the lowest profile mattress (although still quite comfortable in our camping experience). Some will allow you to keep your bedding and pillows arranged, others won't. Slide in or flatbed pop-ups will be slightly thicker, in the range or 4-5″ thick, as they have to accommodate the roof closing, with or without all your pillows and bedding still arranged. Hard side campers tend to offer thicker mattresses because the headroom exists, and you can absolutely pile on all your bedding and other gear while under way.

• Sizing: Manufacturers often list a mattress as "queen" or "full," but the actual dimensions are frequently shorter and narrower than a residential mattress of the same name, shaped to fit the cabover footprint. Don't assume a fitted sheet from home will work, check the specs first.
• Material: Factory pads are commonly some kind of foam (single or layered) or basic innerspring and can be thinner than what most people sleep on at home. Upgrading to a memory foam or hybrid topper is one of the most common and highest-impact comfort upgrades owners make.
• Condensation: In cold weather, moisture can build up underneath a mattress that sits directly against an exterior wall or an insulated pop-up roof, especially without airflow beneath it. A slatted platform, Froli system, moisture-wicking pad, or occasionally turning and airing out the mattress helps prevent this. Worth pairing with the four-season guidance in the heating & cooling section.

Most truck campers include a dinette that converts to a second sleeping area, but "converts to a bed" means very different things depending on the model, and this is one of the most common points of confusion for buyers traveling with family.

• Kid-sized vs. adult-capable: Some dinette conversions are only sized (or only comfortable) for a child or a single smaller adult. Others convert to a genuine second full or queen bed that two adults can sleep in. If you're planning to travel with a family or a second couple, confirm which category the model you're looking at falls into; don't assume.
• Conversion effort: Some dinettes convert in seconds (cushions rearrange, table drops into place). Others require more disassembly. If you expect to use the dinette bed nightly rather than occasionally, ask how quick and how permanent the conversion is, since a cumbersome nightly routine tends to mean it stops getting used.
• Bunk / Cot add-ons: Some models also offer an additional sleeping area that creates a bunk bed over the dinette conversion. This sleeping arrangement is one the kids will certainly love. Some brands use bunks / cots that quickly stow away, while others are more fixed. In our lineup, Adventurer and Lance offer a bunk bed over the dinette in certain models.

For hard-side campers, a rooftop tent is a genuine way to add real sleeping capacity without adding interior floor space, and it's a feature worth understanding well since it changes both the camper's capability and its weight distribution.

The GFC (Go Fast Campers) V2 Pro is the rooftop tent option offered on Scout's Olympic and Kenai hardwall models. A few things worth knowing:

• Capacity: Adds sleeping space for two additional people, so a Scout Kenai with the GFC option can sleep up to six total between the cabover, dinette, and rooftop tent.
• Setup: Opens in two steps, unlatch and push, with no poles or assembly.
• Interior passthrough access: This is the standout feature. A built-in hatch (positioned above the dinette on the Olympic) lets you climb up into the rooftop tent from inside the camper, so nobody has to exit into the weather or climb an exterior ladder in the dark just to get to the second sleeping level.
• Dimensions: The standard platform tent is 53″×97″ exterior, closes down to just 6 inches thick, and opens to 90″×56″ of interior space with 55 inches of peak height.
• Weight and mounting: It mounts on gear-ready roof racks, and weight/pricing reflects the tent and rack together. Because it adds real weight up high, it's worth reviewing alongside your truck's payload capacity and how that affects center of gravity, especially if you plan to spend meaningful time off-road. It's also generally not combinable with other roof-mounted tent options, so it's an either/or choice at the ordering stage.

Best for: Families or groups who want to sleep more people than the interior alone allows, without towing a second vehicle or building out a larger, heavier camper.

A simple way to compare campers is by total sleeping capacity rather than trying to add up cabover, dinette, and any add-ons yourself.

Some layouts feature a side bench or small sofa, while others use Lagun-style tables for flexible, space-saving setups that swivel and adjust easily. In smaller campers, the bed or entry area often doubles as a seating space.

Many DIY and custom builds use modular or built-in seating tailored to storage needs or specific use cases, like work-from-the-road setups or families needing extra space. If you have a layout in mind, we build custom interiors.

Have a question about your own truck, camper, or situation? Reach out and we'll talk through your specific setup.